Abstract
My capstone research addresses the ethical and sustainability concerns that are associated with the production of hyaluronic acid, also referred to as HA. HA is commonly used in skincare and personal care products for its hydrating abilities, and has been historically extracted from animal tissue, more specifically from rooster combs and cow eyes. This process has raised concerns about consumer transparency and animal cruelty. As the demand for skincare products continues to grow exponentially, it is crucial to implement an alternative method of HA synthesis that is cleaner and more sustainable. In order to address this problem, the capstone team will be implementing a process design for hyaluronic acid that meets rising consumer demand while maintaining sustainable and cruelty-free standards. This will be achieved with the extraction of hyaluronic acid from a bacterium, Bacillus Subtilis, from microbial fermentation.
It is crucial to consider the human and social dimensions of this technology because the technological solution will not function without human and social implications, which impact the demand and perception of skincare products. My STS research investigates how social media, specifically TikTok’s #SkinTok community, has influenced the production and consumption of skincare products containing hyaluronic acid. #SkinTok has dramatically amplified product trends, as well as strong ingredient awareness and beauty standards.
In addition, skincare demand has particularly increased among Gen Z women, who are primary consumers of this #SkinTok. This digital environment not only drives consumer demand but also shapes perceptions of necessity and self-image in skincare.
This thesis will draw upon Karen Barad’s agential realism theory to analyze the relationship between the observers (influencers, dermatologists, and consumers alike, posting skincare content). and the observed (TikTok users who frequently interact with #SkinTok content). Using this theory, and the relationship that is evolving between them through social media.
In order to conduct the STS research, a detailed survey will be distributed to the demographic of interest (female-identifying TikTok users in the U.S., aged 18-24). This survey consists of several skincare-related TikToks that promote products with HA. Respondents will view these TikToks and answer questions about the videos, as well as their own experiences with TikTok, skincare, and self-image. Through this STS research, I expect to find that TikTok amplifies both the perceived importance of specific ingredients like hyaluronic acid and the urgency to purchase related products. I also anticipate discovering that social media blurs the boundary between scientific credibility and influencer marketing, increasing consumer demand while reinforcing beauty norms that disproportionately affect young women. When considered in concert, my capstone project and STS research highlight how the surge of social media and digital consumer culture creates an impact on the biotechnology industry. Addressing animal cruelty is important, yet it is also crucial to consider how social media is constructing consumer desire, and if this escalating demand is sourced from a culture that revolves around insecurities and self-image.
